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Writer's pictureSean Goh

A Beginner's Guide to Watch Complications



A Rolex banner outside the store
Nathan Aguirre via Unsplash

Introduction

In the world of horology, the term 'complication' takes on a rather intriguing meaning. For the uninitiated, it may sound like something to avoid, but for watch enthusiasts, complications represent the pinnacle of craftsmanship, engineering, and luxury. They transform a watch from a mere timekeeping tool into a mechanical marvel, a testament to human ingenuity. But what are these revered complications, and why do they matter? Let's delve into the intricate realm of luxury watch complications.



What Are Watch Complications?

A complication in watchmaking refers to any function that goes beyond basic timekeeping, i.e., displaying hours, minutes, and seconds. These additional features increase the complexity of the watch mechanism and are a testament to the skill and precision of the watchmaker. From displaying the date or the phase of the moon to chiming the hours with a minute repeater or accurately replicating the irregular lengths of months with a perpetual calendar, complications add functionality and sophistication to a timepiece.



Exploring the Universe of Complications

A Rolex Daytona Paul Newman
Rolex Daytona

Chronograph: One of the most popular complications, the chronograph, acts as a stopwatch. It has independent second hands that can be started, stopped, and returned to zero by successive pressure on the pushers. My personal favorite has to be the Paul Newman style Daytonas. Every time I look at one, all I can think about is how the entire piece is designed with the racing driver in mind. Realistically, I have no idea how one would use it for timing races but nonetheless, it sure is one hell of a piece.



Arnold & Son Moonphase watch
Arnold & Son Moonphase

Moon Phase: This complication displays the current phase of the moon as visible from Earth. It's a tribute to the ancient relationship between timekeeping and astronomy.



A classy Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar

Perpetual Calendar: As one of the most complex complications, the perpetual calendar accounts for the varying lengths of months and even leap years. It won't require manual date corrections until 2100, provided the watch remains wound.



An elegant Grand Seiko Kobo Constant Force Tourbillon
Grand Seiko Kobo Constant Force Tourbillon

Tourbillon: Invented to counteract the effects of gravity on a watch's accuracy, the tourbillon is a rotating cage that houses the balance wheel and escapement. It's highly complex to manufacture and often visible through the watch face as a testament to the watchmaker's craft. The Tourbillon has to be my "dream watch" to own the entire mechanism intrigues me in a way it feels like I'm wearing some kind of "space ship" tech on my wrist.



A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne

Minute Repeater: Arguably the king of complications, the minute repeater audibly chimes the hours, quarter hours, and minutes past the quarter hour at the press of a button. The intricate series of tiny hammers and gongs requires exceptional skill to construct. This, hands down, has to be the classiest complication there is. I don't even care if it chimes in the middle of a meeting. Those chimes simply translate to "I've made it in life".



Practicality vs. Prestige

Some complications like the date or chronograph add practical functionality, while others like the tourbillon or minute repeater are more about showcasing the watchmaker's skill. The complexity and precision required to build these mechanisms are a large part of what makes a luxury watch truly luxurious. Owning a watch with these complications can be likened to owning a piece of art – it's not just about utility but also about appreciation of the craftsmanship.



How to Choose

When choosing a watch based on its complications, consider your lifestyle and needs. Do you need a chronograph for timing events, or are you drawn to the romance of a moon phase complication? Perhaps the mechanical complexity of a tourbillon fascinates you, or the practicality of a perpetual calendar suits your busy lifestyle. Remember, each complication adds to the mechanical complexity of the watch, and in turn, its maintenance needs and cost.


In reality, it can sometimes come down to the collectability of a certain movement. Sign up as a member today and get the latest updates on when we release our "watch investing guide". And other times, people just buy them because of the particular a movement associated to a brand has made a significant footprint in society.



Conclusion

Watch complications are a fascinating realm within the wider world of horology. They represent the delicate balance between art and science that is at the heart of every luxury watch. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a novice enthusiast, understanding watch complications can deepen your appreciation for these mechanical marvels. What's your favorite watch complication, and why? Join the conversation and share your thoughts.



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